Today was the AS Roma versus Napoli soccer game. A number of us from the LSJ and Design group attended. Although we only bought our tickets for 17 euro, I honestly think we couldn’t have had a better time. We were on the placed on the North curve of the stadium. Only one empty section, filled with guards, away from the opposing team’s fans. Roma scored a beautiful goal in the first half and fans were ecstatic. Everyone was jumping, screaming, waving their scarves and flags and exchanging obscene gestures with Napoli’s fans. I’ve never heard such amazing noise and passion in my life.
During halftime I left the stadium to throw away my trash, and there were Polizia and Carabinieri with riot shields, helmets and various weapons standing ready for the impending violence. I stood behind the crowd on the steps to get a better view and joined in with the various taunting chants. The fans of Napoli were separated from the fans of Roma by a mere green fence, and the shouting and gestures were beginning to escalate. As soon as the violence seemed to get out of hand, the police stepped in and threw grenades and smoke bombs into the crowd. This didn’t deter anyone, it only encouraged. People began lighting their own flares and tossing them back and forth. Eventually I realized that I should have been taking pictures and I took out my camera to document. But by that time, half time had ended and everyone was being pushed back into the stadium.
In the second half, somehow the Napoli fan section had tripled in size and was practically overflowing over the high glass dividers. The police force between us had also doubled, but didn’t seem to help much. A flare escaped through the barrier and made its way over to our section. Everyone scrambled away. The police held back a few people who had made it over the barrier and attempted to engage our fans. Napoli scored a goal and this only rallied them more. They held up banners and signs saying “SPIE” and the chants and screams grew louder and more frequent. The end of the game closed in and neither team managed to make another goal. Even with a tie, the Napoli fans never stopped chanting, and Roma’s fans left looking upset that they had not won the first game of the season.
I truly appreciate the degree to which the Europeans are passionate about their soccer and their teams. It is unrivaled by anything we have in the US (yes, including football, sorry). I envy it and can’t wait to experience it again. Forza Roma!